Isla in Taiwan

The HIYA Cycle Tour 25th November – 3rd December 2022

Hal, myself, Yasmin and Angus recently cycled around the entire island of Taiwan, because why not!

We began our treacherous journey in Taipei, and cycled to Hsinchu, Taichung, Chiayi, Kaohsiung, Chechung, Taitung, Yuli, Hualien, Jiaoxi and then back to Taipei!

The fact that none one of us put any thought towards this trip beforehand was for the best, for had we known what was to come we definitely would not have agreed to go.

Nevertheless, we spent 8 nights and 9 days covered in blood, sweat and tears. Every one of us had a fall at one point, but luckily no major problems with our bikes or bodies! This is very lucky, especially considering we didn't even have a first aid kit on us. Although, whilst stopped at a traffic light one day, a motorbike driver spotted Yasmin's many cuts and bruises and dove into her handbag to give her some plasters.

None of us are quite sure how we managed to complete the cycle, although the countless hoots and motivational 加油s (literally meaning 'add fuel') from strangers kept us going. We were especially in need of motivation on Day 6, other known as Hell Day, were we set off at 6am, only to be faced with a 40km steady incline. However, after celebrating cycling up and down a mountain, we were hit with 40km/h winds, forcing us to a stop if we dared to stop peddling – even on a downhill. This continued for the rest of the 120km long day – safe to say there were a few tears and attempts at surrender along the way, but we reached our destination that day after 11.5 hours on the bike.

We ate two out of three of our meals at 7-11 every day, where we discovered the magic of the 7-11 hotdog – probably the most processed food we could find. In the evening, if we had enough energy, we strolled the various vibrant night markets and restaurants of Taiwan, indulging ourselves in delicious well-deserved local cuisine – such as spaghetti hotdogs and deep fried 蔥油餅 (加蛋 of course). Some nights, we were unable to summon enough strength to walk out of the door, so ordered takeaway to our hostel rooms. Our dinner on the night of Hell day (in Taitung) was one of these nights, so we ordered some fried rice, noodles and omelettes. By the time the food arrived (with arguments about who was going down to collect it), we were so ravenous that we all sat on Hal and Angus' bed and tucked in without bothering to engage in conversation or display manners of any kind. We each seized hold of a container and wolfed down the food, and every few mouthfuls, would snatch a container out of each others hands, forcing our partner to swap. As we were nearing the end of our regularly swapped containers, Angus got a hold of the last chunk of omelette and shoved the whole piece in his mouth. For the first time since beginning our feast, the three of us looked up from our food and stared at Angus in horror – our faces were later compared to someone who had just seen their pet get run over.

Another one of these nights was in Kaohsiung, after another 120km ride. We managed to put on some clothes other than our over-worn cycling shorts and we hobbled out of the hostel in search of any food – we weren't fussy. After walking a few metres, Angus asks if any of us fancy ordering pizza instead. Without a moments of hesitation or discussion, we all simultaneously turned on our heels and walked the short distance back to our hostel in agreement.

A large proportion of our cycling routes went through cities and townships, meaning that we had to cycle through innumerable traffic lights. We started off strong, stopping at every red light, but on the third day, we passed a local cyclist (or should I say he passed us) who cycled through a red light. Whether he meant to or not, we took this as permission for us to follow suit, and for the rest of the trip we took red lights as a mere suggestion rather than a legal requirement. The fact that we weren't getting told off only fuelled our disregard for the law. However, on one unfortunate occasion, as we were coming up to a very quiet crossroads with a big red light, a police car passed Angus and I and stopped at the red light. For some mysterious reason, Angus and I felt a sudden urge to stop at the light. We watched amusingly as Yasmin and Hal followed our usual procedure of feigning colour blindness, unaware of the police car that had pulled up behind them. As they crossed the road, we hear the a loud, angry voice coming from the car, indicating that the policemen had watched them and disapproved entirely. As the light turned green, Angus and I were still giggling as we re-joined them.

The nature of our city-based cycling routes also meant that we had to keep a close eye on directions, which caused a few hiccups and arguments. One moment that Yasmin and I remember fondly was when we turned right at a crossroads, expecting the boys to follow suit, because they knew we were on directions. But when turned round, warned of their absence by the lack of regular doubt 'YOU SURE THIS IS THE RIGHT WAY??' As we looked back, we saw them speeding along the road without turning. We called them straight away, telling them to turn off where we did. After assuring us that they were on their way, we saw them cycle back in the opposite direction, missing the turn again – we were waving frantically but they missed us, so we called back again to deliver the same news. Once again, they assured us that they were on their way this time. Only this time, instead of turning right where we were waiting patiently for them, they veered left on to the last wrong turn possible at the crossroads. At this point, Yasmin and I were cracking up, and just about managed to get out our fourth lot of directions between our hysterics – needless to say, by the time they finally found us, they did not match our level of amusement.

By the time we got back to Taipei, however, we were all in equal amounts of pain, and as we arrived back at the bike shop, embraced in a sweaty, tearful, smelly hug – all in complete shock that we actually survived.

Monday 10th October

This weekend we decided to take a trip to Hualien – a beautiful city on the East coast of Taiwan (it's also the epicentre of Earthquakes).

Yasmin, Angus and I get the 3-hour train on Friday afternoon. Yasmin and I were smart enough to buy our tickets in advance, but Angus decides to buy his at the station, 5 minutes before the train leaves.

Funnily enough, he didn't get a seat.

Our next 3 hours is spent with three people squished into the space of two seats, burdening our fellow passengers with regular complaints of over-heating, numb bums and dead arms.

When we get off in Hualien, we are greeted with a tropical rainstorm that shows no mercy towards three British students wearing jeans and converse – with a severe lack of an umbrella.

Luckily, our hostel isn't too far from the train station, but by the time we arrive, there is not a single dry spot on any of us. We go next door to get the man who works at the motorcycle shop to call the owner of the hostel to let us in – a great system, I know. We finally get to our room, treading our path with wet feet as we make our way up.

The next day, the rain has not slowed at all, so we buy some incredibly fashionable rain ponchos and catwalk them around the shop – whilst shoppers look at us with curiosity and judgement.

Our day starts at 10am, where we set off on our chauffeured path down the Taroko Gorge – and yes, it was gorgeous. By the time we come to our third stop, we are completely awe-struck by the natural beauty and believe that nothing can dampen our spirits (despite the deluge coming from above).

However, standing in front of me is a rickety suspension bridge that leads to a beautiful temple up the mountain. My friends don't think twice and saunter across, unbothered by its swaying side to side with their every step. I step on timidly and make me way across slowly, waddling like a penguin to minimise the movement of the bridge, and of my nervous stomach.

As I make it to the middle, however, all my courage is gone and I start to panic. The handrails are below my hips and the swinging is making me go dizzy, as well as the sheer drop below. My friends try to encourage me with some positive words, but all rationality has disappeared down the cliff edge we just stepped off.

Out of frustration, I'm sure, more than anything else, Angus covers my eyes, grabs me and frog marches me across the bridge. I scream profanities and curse him the whole way across. As I step onto hard ground again, my legs are so full of adrenaline and complete terror that it feels like the ground is still swaying beneath me.

One of them asks me – don't you fly planes? I ignore the question.

The next day, we rent bikes and go for a 5-hour cycle along the coast and up a mountain to a rural village (or 'township', as they call it here). Even though we are only an hour out of the city, everyone stops what they're doing as we go past to wave at us and say hello. I guess they don't see many foreigners here – not surprising considering the number of landslides we had to swerve past on our way up!

We stop at 7-11 for a Pocari Sweat hallway through and keep going until our bikes need to go back to the rental shop. At which point they asked if we went swimming based on our lack of waterproof gear cycling through the rain.

We walk our tired legs to the night market for a well-deserved feast and crash out early in preparation for the train tomorrow – where we will be getting a seat each!

All in all, a very successful weekend trip with some beautiful scenery. Plus, excellent timing because we make it back in time to see the Taiwan Independence Day light show, and the night we get back to Taipei there is an Earthquake that wakes us up at 4am – Magnitude 5.7 in Hualien but only M2 in Taipei!!

Wednesday 5th October

My 21st birthday was one for the books! Five British students celebrating on a quiet Wednesday night in Taipei...what could go wrong!

After class, where my classmates surprised me with Oreos (my fave), I get the bus into the city – and this time, I didn't do anything wrong! In fact – we took such a sharp turn at one point that a girl standing behind me fell face first and slammed into me at full force. I wasn't bothered in the slightest – just ecstatic that it wasn't me!

We decided to go to Cé La Vi – a cool rooftop bar that overlooks the city – an excellent idea. However, the torrential rain put a slight dampener on our spirits. It also didn't help at all that it took us approximately 30 minutes to find out how to get into the building.

The lift was pretty terrifying – we reached the 48th floor within seconds, everyone's ears popped and we could all feel the Gs from the lightning speed with which it shot up the building. Needless to say, by the time we get to the bar, we've had a whole rollercoaster of emotions already.

We get an incredibly overpriced drink and wander outside to sit beneath an umbrella that is doing precious little to protect us from the downpour. But the drinks taste so good we can barely notice, and get swept up in our riveting conversation about the ups and downs of learning Chinese!

As we near the point of being soaked, we decide to go to a KTV bar (karaoke), even though it is midnight and Yasmin and I have class the next day at 8am (plus an hour commute).

Angus refuses to accept an early night and leads the march towards the bar. We have our own private karaoke room for an hour and begin to sing our hearts out to the classic cringey karaoke songs – e.g., Baby by Justin Bieber and Chandelier by Sia (luckily the rooms are soundproofed).

I am mid-ballad when we get interrupted by an employee – we decide to our extend our time for another hour. As we are arranging another hour, a Chinese rap song comes up and we try our best to read the lyrics but its too fast. This man sees that we are struggling and gestures for the microphone – he puts it to his mouth and proceeds to fluently rap the entire song to perfection. I have the other microphone so I chime in with the last word of each sentence because I can't read the characters as fast as him.

Our night ends at 2.30am and we stumble home – exhausted and sore-throated.

Even though I know I will only get 4 hours of sleep and my tomorrow-self will hate me, it was a fantastic birthday :)

Tuesday, 4th October

Two weeks in, and things are becoming slightly more familiar but in a good way?? Who knows...

The buses have started to make a bit more sense (ish). Although every time I get on I still have to ask if they are going to my stop. One time I got off at the wrong stop and the bus driver shouted at me and told me to get back on the bus. The following five minutes were full of shame and embarrassment – and giggles coming from behind.

I have also signed a lease for an apartment for the next 5 months! This terrifying ordeal took place in a 7-11 (a popular convenience store). We had to hand over 178,500NTD in the form of a mountain of cash. We conversed in a convoluted Chenglish and received numerous dodgy looks from casual shoppers.

Dad kindly informed me to ask them about a diplomatic cause – meaning that if there was a national emergency, we could leave the country and end our lease without any additional fees.

Funnily enough, our translation attempts were less than adequate. For some reason the only word we could think of to explain this 'diplomatic' cause was 'war'. As you can imagine, the W word didn't go down very well and both the landlord and estate agent became incredibly nervous, while we tried and failed to take back our accidental threat. We later got told off by the agent – warning us that the landlord nearly backed out of the deal – oops.

I also stepped foot in my first club this weekend. Although I almost missed my opportunity!

Clubs in Taiwan require you to have proof of three vaccinations, whilst bars require two. However, while in the queue for the club, I realise I have no idea where to find proof of my third vaccination. I try to log into my NHS app but it has sent a verification code to my UK number – the SIM card of which is sitting on my desk at home because I am now on a Taiwanese number.

The bouncer is getting impatient because I am obviously struggling to come up with a solution. I take a deep breath and do my best to explain to this bad-tempered man why I can't get my third vaccination proof.

After a few minutes of communication struggles, this situation escalates somewhat and ends up in an disheveled argument that consisted of me pleading with him and being kicked out of the queue.

At this point I am fed up and tell my friends to go in without me, I go into my wallet to find some money to get home but my gaze falls on the vaccination cards that I so cleverly kept for this exact circumstance.

Half relieved, half-mortified, I saunter back up to the bouncer and swallowing my pride, timidly hold up the cards. He rolls his eyes and ushers me in to the club – score!

The inside of the club was actually really cool, the only problem was that it was completely empty – we had arrived at 11pm to get free entry.

I invited my classmates to come with me in order to break the ice a bit – bearing in mind I am referring to an entire glacier – these people are incredibly socially awkward and never speak!

The rest of the evening consists of me doing my best to talk to all of them at once because they are not speaking to each other. I constantly go up to different groups of locals or internationals and introduce them to everyone, but they are standing like statues, holding their drinks and looking around. I am feeling hopelessly stressed until something magical happens.

Queue Taylor Swift...

My queen has saved the evening! As soon as Queen Tay Tay makes it on I am have lost all inhibitions and worries, I am dancing to this song like my life depends on it – because my evening does. I have obviously made such a fool of myself that my classmates begin to relax a bit and start knee-bopping to the beat – success!

The aftermath of this night bites me in the arse for the following two days. I spend my entire Sunday trying to recover – I have no idea why I ordered whiskey and coke! Come Monday, I no longer feel ill but there is some hangover grump.

In my class there is a 35-40 year old (no one knows) who drinks copious amounts of coffee every day. But he doesn't drink it from his flask or a mug or cup like a normal human being – no – he pours a little bit of coffee into the little lid that the flask comes with then lowers his mask and tips it down his throat like he's taking shots.

Now, usually this doesn't bother me too much, but for some reason, I was feeling a whole other level of aggravation. Call it sleep deprivation or hangover, but for some reason seeing this man shot his coffee at 8am made me so angry that I had to close my eyes for fear that I might act on my aggressive instincts.

In my defence, I have not been able to fart in days for fear that my roommate might hear.

Sunday 25th September

After having completed probably the most chaotic week of my life, there are a couple 'first's I would like to reflect on.

1. My first Taiwanese public bus experience.

Living on the outskirts of the city, travelling by bus is the easiest way to get around (rather than the MRT).

A couple days ago I went out to Jingmei night market to meet some friends. Before setting out, I researched every possible way I could go wrong (there are many) and made my way down to the bus station.

Turns out buses really do not agree with me.

I look on my phone and see that I have to take the BR6. I assume this means bus route 6, so as the 'brown 6' bus pulls up I step away confidently, making way for others to get on, and take a look at the board. When the bus I'm waiting for doesn't come, my stupidity dawns on me.

I wait 30 minutes for the next bus, which adds a 20 minute shameful walk on the other end.

The bus itself was a whole new experience too. I got on at an early station in the bus route so managed to grab a seat, but it started filling up rapidly. Apparently 'bagsying' a seat counts for nothing though, as for the entire 40 minute journey, my personal space crosses no one's mind but my own.

Throughout the whole journey, I can feel people breathing down my neck, hear people clearing their lungs into their masks (some even take their masks off to do so) and a constant flow of people, mixed with some questionable driving skills makes the passenger crowd sway uncontrollably.

To avoid toppling over, people hold on the anything, including other passengers. A woman decides to stand over me, holding on to my headrest and rests her handbag on my lap while she scrolls through her 'Line' feed in my face as if to share the experience with me.

However, totally worth the pain to go to Jingmei and have some delicious grub!

2. My first Chinese marketing lecture – aka public humiliation

So, a family friend from Singapore is a marketing professor at my university. He insists that I come to his 3 HOUR lecture every Thursday afternoon – it's called 'Product Innovation; Adoption and Diffusion' (whatever that means). It is also for Master's students.

I sit down at a desk towards the back of the lecture hall with my name card slotted in the desk in front of me. At this time, I do not feel too anxious, expecting this to be a 'sit back, listen and try to understand' learning experience for me. Although, considering the room of native Chinese-speakers in front of me, it is a daunting experience to say the least.

To start the class, the professor gives me a microphone and makes me introduce myself to everyone – without warning. Having been put completely on the spot, I take the microphone, and I have suddenly lost all the moisture in my mouth to every single sweat gland in my body.

Voice and hands shaking, I mumble a brief few sentences about Durham and warn them that my Chinese isn't nearly as good as theirs'. Everyone claps pitifully and I shrink into my chair embarrassed, yet glad that my public speaking is finally over.

Nope.

Never in a million years did I expect to be called upon to ANSWER A QUESTION in the middle of this lecture. Nevertheless, about an hour and a half in, someone hands me a microphone (I think – I have since tried my best to block this from memory) and he asks me to describe the mysterious product pictured on the board in front of me.

The picture shows a green package with Chinese writing I don't understand. He repeats the question and waits for an answer despite the indication from my bright red face that I don't have one. I have no clue what this product is, I opt for the safest bet and say that it's 'healthy'.

Luckily it turned out to be an edible product (bamboo salt), but my answer is clearly less than satisfactory because he takes the microphone from me and passes it to the girl in front. She proceeds to deliver an impeccable 3 minute speech, unprepared, and everyone claps (genuinely this time) when she finishes speaking.

I can feel tears welling up in my eyes, out of frustration rather than sadness – you know the feeling – and I do my best to choke them down, wary of another surprise attack from the microphone.

My clairvoyant skills paid off.

To conclude the lecture, Professor Hsiao invites us to reflect on the 'lesson learned' (pictured, moments before disaster) and begins to hand out the dreaded microphone again – one guess who he gives it to!

My classmates snap their heads around, excited for the free entertainment coming from the back of the class and my face convulses in anxiety.

I begrudgingly take the microphone for the third time today, and tell the class what I learned today – that I need to improve my mandarin. Everyone chuckles lightly and awkwardly- they agree. But the professor wants a serious answer and asks me again what I have learned.

At this point there is one thought running through my head:

take a f**king hint!

He lets me off after I make up some waffle and we are all relieved for this experience to be over. As people file out the classroom, there is a queue of students lining up to give me a pat on the back – letting me know I did as well as I could have. I flash a quick smile and a 謝謝 for their kindness and half walk, half sprint home.

Monday, 19th September

I have now spent an entire day out in the world!

The real world is terrifying and confusing – I want quarantine back.

José, on the other hand, was so excited to leave that he arranged a taxi for 00:01 on the day of our freedom.

Our last balcony conversation took place after my first earthquake experience! I felt the room begin to sway and blamed it on my need to sleep. Then the walls, light fixtures and my hands began to shake.

Driving into National Cheng Chi University's campus was an incredibly surreal experience. One second you are driving through a bustling suburb of Taipei, the next you enter a huge campus, with buildings that I have since likened to The Hunger Games' capitol. My dorm is situated at the top of the mountain campus, and it takes around 15 minutes to drive up there from the main gate of the campus (crucial info for later).

Some incredibly kind family friends help me move in to my dorm room. Luckily my roommate is not around at the time, because we inspect her side of the room and try to guess what kind of human being she is based on her chosen brand of pot noodle.

The first port of call for my room is to buy a mattress, duvet, pillow and bed sheets. Apparently, these are not considered Taiwanese bedroom necessities...

I meet my roommate, Mei, in the evening, and after saying hello it becomes immediately obvious that successful communication will be a luxury in our room. When both Chinese and English are insufficient, we use a mix of google translate, sign language and charades. The only conversation that has not been lost in translation: our mutual hate for cockroaches. She shows me to the bathroom, where she has covered each drain with a lid to stop them from crawling out – we both shiver in disgust.

I tell her I am going to shower, and she signals that I should not. My mind races, trying to figure out if its an earthquake, cockroach or water-related issue. After 15 minutes I figure out that we are waiting for the rubbish truck to turn up. Once Für Elise begins to play on a speaker in our room, we head out to dump our rubbish bags in a big truck outside.

This morning I have some confidence that I know the basic way around campus.

How wrong I was.

After spending way too long trying to figure out how to pay my rent, I decide to make my way back to the dorm and drop my heavy textbooks off. I get on the campus bus, pay my 2NTD and hang on for dear life as the bus driver zigzags uphill, ignoring all the crashes behind him as people slam into walls, seats and each other.

All the markings inside this bus are in traditional Chinese – a written language I am still getting used to. We come to my stop after about 15 minutes and my arms are aching from gripping on to the handle at my head-height. This overcrowded bus is built for an average height of about 5'2. I sigh with relief when we drive towards my dorm building, glad to give my arms and back a rest finally.

I watch with horror as the bus glides past my building without stopping, and it dawns on me that the big red button in front of me is the stop here please button. I panic and search around for a solution as the dorm fades out of view but it's too late. I make eye contact with a girl on the bus – she watched the scene play out and gives me a pitying smile.

I solemnly ride the bus as it makes its way round the remote corners of the campus, and watch bitterly as the other students navigate the simple bus route with ease.

I get off the bus at the same point I climbed on 30 minutes ago, and start my trek up the hill – choosing to walk rather than bear the shame of having to explain my mistakes to the driver.

At this point I suddenly realise I have no idea how to walk home – having only driven before.

Somehow, after going the wrong way three times, I find a lift that takes me to a walkway connected to my building. I breath a sigh of relief – my fear of lifts paling at the thought of 10 flights of stairs in 32 degree heat.

As I come to the lift, however, the buttons don't light up and doors aren't closing. So, hanging on to my last shred of patience, I clamber up the stairs, lugging my three textbooks and laptop with me.

Nearly 1.5 hours after setting off, I slump onto my bed, switch the fan on and angle it toward my face. As I gulp down a gallon of water to tackle the sweat-induced dehydration, I come to the conclusion that half a pence is not a bad price to pay for a campus tour anyway.

Thursday 15th September

I have made friends with my next door neighbour, José – or as they call him here – Josie. We met whilst standing on our respective balconies and started to chat, capitalising on the only human interaction available (no offence to him). I learn that he is from Guatemala and is studying here on a contract with a Taiwanese football team! I also discover that his birthday falls on day 3 of quarantine.

In an attempt to make conversation, I inform him that a typhoon will be coming in the next couple days, using a spiral hand signal to accommodate for the language barrier. His eyes widen at my theatrical gesticulation and I immediately backtrack, trying to downplay how terrifying I now realise my sign language appeared. Two days later, I find out that my efforts to console him were in vain.

José points at the now clear sky and asks about the typhoon. I tell him it has been and gone – hence the two days of rain. He tells me off, because since our last conversation he has been anxiously checking the window for signs of a natural disaster. I laugh and assure him, no, this happens a lot – don't worry! He tells me that whilst on the phone to his family, he passed on the news of my weather report, at which point they begged him to come home for fear of his life. Oops.

For the time being, the most interesting part of my day takes place from 8-11am during my online class. Every morning my face appears on a laptop that sits in the middle of the classroom – I am the only student online. When it comes to the dreaded group discussions, the poor student sat closest to said laptop has the job of spinning me in the direction of the speaker. It gets dizzy.

Every lesson, our teacher, 王老師, gives us questions to discuss with our partner. For those in the classroom, it's as simple as turning to the person sat next to them, and speaking. For me, it is mission impossible.

I start by reading the question on my laptop, trying to make sense of the traditional Chinese characters. Then I grab my phone, tilt it so that my mouth is as close to the microphone as is possible without contracting a disease, then I go about screaming my answer down the phone.

There is so much background noise that it's a miracle if two consecutive sentences bare any resemblance to one another.

Todays cheery topic: war. My conversation partner: Russian. What could go wrong? The question is as follows (translated for convenience of course):

If a war broke out in your country, what do you think the disadvantages would be?

An unusual question at any rate, my partner lists several of these disadvantages and I hold my tongue, trying my best not to make this political when there is barely enough technology to hold a functioning conversation. Fortunately, her answer and my retort are both muffled by the hubbub of my animated classmates.

Our teacher has walked in with a box of moon cakes to celebrate the famous 中秋節, or Mid-Autumn Festival! The class flock to collect their cakes, marvelling at their delectability. To celebrate this bonding moment, they call in a teacher from next door to take a group photo and mark the occasion. All the while, I remain sat on the table, facing the opposite wall, feeling like a gooseberry.

The atmosphere begins to deflate and the class sits back down. An ill-fated classmate sits in front of the laptop, and jumps, having forgotten about the gooseberry.

Wednesday 14th September

I am now on day 4/8 of my quarantine. The way it works is a 3 day quarantine and then 4 days of 'self-health monitoring', or as I understand it 'more quarantine'. They like to disguise this ugly truth by calling the last 4 days 'self-initiated epidemic prevention period', which basically just means you still have to stay inside, you just don't need to send your temperature and symptoms to the government anymore.

As I understood it, during these 4 days, I was allowed to go outside for 'grocery shopping'. So I inform the hotel that I will step out for an hour. After going through all the steps, forms, and covid tests, I put my mask on, and step outside my room for the first time since I arrived...

I take myself on a leisurely stroll, getting a feel for the city. I have figured out how to cross the road without getting hit by a motorbike and start to gain some confidence. I type in the route to the nearest bubble tea shop – my first order of business – and come to 就愛Comebuy.

As I head up to the counter I start to panic. I know the word for lychee because I just looked it up on Pleco but it has been ages since I spoke Chinese in person! The whole ordering process goes by in a blur and I walk away with the wrong kind of tea, the wrong size cup, the wrong amount of sugar, and no bubbles in my bubble tea. I'm not even entirely sure how much money I paid.

At this point, my nerves are building up because I realise that I am seriously struggling to understand Chinese that hasn't come out of a textbook. I am faintly aware of someone talking behind me but think nothing of it until I hear a loud 'EXCUSE ME' in a thick Taiwanese accent and I turn around to see a man on a bike who has been trying to get me to move out of his way for some time now.

Out of panic and embarrassment, I duck into the 7/11 on my right, muttering some profanities at myself for my complete lack of Taiwanese street smartness.

My spirits are soon lifted as I look around the shop to see many of the snacks and sweet treats I once treasured as a child in Singapore. I lunge for the Cheetos, and a nostalgic happiness overwhelms me as I walk through the aisles, grabbing bits and bobs that look appealing. When I come to the counter, the very sweet and friendly sales assistant asks if I want a spoon with my yoghurt. Although of course, in my dreamlike state, having not spoken to a human being face to face in 4 days, I freeze.

She holds up a plastic spoon and speaks to me slowly saying 要不要?Despite being spoken to like a 1 year old child, I am grateful for her simplicity as I nod yes and rush out the shop. I make it back to the hotel within the hour. I feel some elation to have made it back to my room, and to have ridden the terrifying lift by myself!I step into the room that has become my safe haven, and vow to myself that I will not leave the comfort of room 2094 again until I have to.

Not that I would have been able to anyway, as within minutes of my return, an email pops up from the university.

It reads:

Isla, If it's not really emergency, please not going out...

I immediately hit reply and assure her that I will not be venturing out again until the end of my captivity. The wild is terrifying, and I have grown accustomed to the comfort of my air-con, free wifi, 3 meal-a-day delivery service, and a balcony with a great view.

Of course, she is not impressed by my excursion, and warns me that I might be fined!

Saturday 10th September

I arrive at Taoyuan International Airport at 6:15am in a big hoodie and tracksuit bottoms, not feeling too fresh after 24 hours of travelling.

Immediately after getting off the huge plane, I am greeted by a man from the Taiwanese Ministry of Education. This man is so keen to get me and Julia (another student) through the airport that he trips over his feet, making a loud squeaking sound with his polished trainers as he rushes us through the deserted airport. (A week ago, this place was crammed with students arriving from all over the world, but I am late to the party.)

Even though we are in an air-conditioned building, the heat hits me like a sack of bricks and I want to roll up my sleeves but this man practically shoves me towards the SIM card station before I have the chance. I opt for the 15-day SIM card in case I have COVID and have to quarantine for 14 days (the unthinkable).

The next step is to show the 'quarantine system for entry form' that I filled out at 4am in the check-in queue at Heathrow (which now feels like a lifetime ago). I go through passport control, show my folder of documents and the online form, as well as my new Taiwanese number. They place a small cup in my hand, which they inform me is my PCR test kit. I stumble forward, somewhat confused by the lack of swab, tube etc.

Once I have collected my bags, my hyper-enthusiastic airport guide points me towards a maze of ropes that lead me out of the airport and into a line of stalls that have been sectioned off on the road outside the airport.

I go into the first available booth and I am told to spit into the cup that they gave me earlier. I am somewhat taken aback, my British upbringing halting me from being able to spit in front of other people. However, my inhibitions are soon dissolved as I am welcomed by a thunderous array of people hacking and spewing saliva into their cups. I follow suit, trying and failing to maintain as much dignity as possible.

Once I have taken out some cash to pay for the taxi, my temporary friend waves goodbye and nudges me out of the airport. I try to ignore the gallons of sweat that begin to appear all over my body as I arrive at the quarantine taxi rank. I tell my taxi driver which hotel I am isolating in and she starts spraying all my bags down with hand sanitiser, and motions for me to stand like a scarecrow so that I too can be disinfected.

We arrive at the Bear Inn at 8am, and the next few minutes play out in a matter of seconds. Before I know it, I am standing in a mini apartment, with my bags that stink of pure ethanol, covered in sweat, wondering what on Earth is happening and what I am going to do with myself for the next 8 days!

PCR cup airport Lift bedroom